The Selfie as Self‑Portrait. Who Am I in the Images? – Self‑Representation Then and Now
26 • 03 • 23Liliom Szabó
Before people began photographing their own faces, they painted their own portraits. The practice of self-representation is almost as old as art itself, dating back thousands of years. While painting, by its very nature, allows for prolonged self-examination and the merciful concealment of flaws, photography does quite the opposite. Within a brief span of time, it produces a self-portrait that exposes the imperfections of reality.
A man of about thirty stands alone in the courtyard of his family’s business. It is 1839—most likely late October or early November. Before him stands an improvised camera, its lens fashioned from the glass of a theatrical opera scope. He must have determined that the daylight was sufficient to illuminate the carefully prepared metal plate inside the camera and produce a photograph of himself. Finally—and not least importantly—he had to remain motionless for ten to fifteen minutes while staring straight ahead, which was probably no easy task. The man was Robert Cornelius, and people often joke that on that day he created the world’s first selfie: posing in his courtyard with a contemplative gaze, handsome by the standards of the time, his collar turned up and his hair tousled.
After this milestone, the next significant breakthrough in the history of the selfie came with the launch of the portable Kodak Brownie box camera in 1900. From that point onward, photographic self-portraits spread ever more widely. By today’s standards, however, taking selfies in the early 20th century was a cumbersome process. Due to long exposure times, the camera had to be placed on a nearby object or tripod, facing a mirror or at least another reflective surface. The image was then captured using the viewfinder located on top of the camera.
One of the earliest selfie takers was Anastasia Nikolaevna, Grand Duchess of Russia, who photographed herself at just 13 in 1914. She was one of the first teenagers to create a self-portrait using a mirror, intending to send the image to a friend. In the letter accompanying the photograph, she wrote, “I took this picture of myself while looking into the mirror. It was very difficult, because my hands were shaking.”[1]
However, the closest precursor to today’s modern selfie can be traced back to self-representation in Japanese kawaii culture. The cult of kawaii, or cuteness, provided the foundation for an aestheticized mode of self-portraiture that spread most widely among Japanese women of the period. In the 1990s, creating and sharing such selfies became a social event, with young girls compiling their photographs into albums explicitly designed for this purpose and exchanging copies of their images. Inspired by this cultural phenomenon, local photographer Hiromix (Hiromi Toshikawa) published an album titled Seventeen Girl Days, featuring several photos of herself taking selfies and mimicking the original trend. The series brought her widespread recognition in Japan, and in 1995, Canon, the camera brand she used, recognized her work as well.[2]
The manipulation of selfies is not an invention of social media, however much these platforms have accelerated the circulation of beautified and distorted images. Our focus remains in Japan, where purikura emerged in the mid-1990s as a hybrid of ID photo booths and arcade machines. The term purikura is a Japanese abbreviation meaning “print club.” Inside these characteristically kawaii booths, users could freely edit their self-portraits and then print them as stickers. The machines offered a wide range of options, including arbitrary background modifications, the addition of decorative frames and optional ornaments, gentle lighting effects, text overlays, effects mimicking hair extensions, glittering tiaras, and more. It’s no surprise that purikura quickly became a popular form of entertainment among young people—first in Japan, and then gradually across East Asia. These visual effects closely foreshadowed the filters that would later appear on platforms such as Snapchat in the 2010s. By now, the visual logic and photo features of purikura have been mainly absorbed by smartphone applications such as Instagram and Snapchat.[3]
The selfie has since become the most widespread mode of self-portraiture in the modern era. It is quick, simple, and accessible to almost everyone, resulting in tens of thousands of images shared across online platforms today. One major criticism from the once-emblematic aesthete Susan Sontag toward photography was that whenever the photographer and the subject depicted are not the same person, the photographer inevitably occupies a position of power in their relationship, seeing the subject of the photograph in a way the subject could never see themselves. With the selfie, however, this position is assumed by the subject themselves: photographer and subject coincide, allowing control over the image to rest in the same hands.
Yet such an arrangement does not automatically lead to self-portraiture. So what, then, turns a selfie into a self-portrait? What cultural phenomena contribute to this distinction and its evolution? In her essay on the subject,[4] Alise Tifentale argues that the selfie is not merely an image but a complex visual phenomenon produced together with metadata (time, place, likes, comments), in which image-making and display technologies are integral to self-presentation. Tifentale asserts that historically and culturally, the selfie differs significantly from the traditional painted self-portrait.
Audience attention, feedback, and the use of widely recognizable symbols have become almost indispensable. Drawing on the hypothesis proposed by Alise Tifentale and Lev Manovich,[5] individuals compete for social media rewards, such as increased likes or new followers. They distinguish three types of selfies: casual selfies—friendly, everyday images most commonly encountered on social media; professional selfies—images produced within an aesthetic competition context; and designed selfies—forms of consciously constructed visual self-representation. All of this underscores that the selfie is not an uninhibited, private act, but rather part of a competitive system tied to social status and visibility. Yet if the selfie is merely a product of mass society, can it truly be called a self-portrait?
Meanwhile, as Ana Peraica argues,[6] the selfie is not only about what we see but also about how and where we look at ourselves, relocating the representation of identity into a new—both literal and metaphorical—space. Subsequently, what distinguishes an artistic self-portrait from an ordinary, everyday selfie? According to Susan Bright,[7] self-portraiture is not merely a form of self-reflection but a powerful, expressive, and identity-forming practice. Through the use of the body, masks, roles, and artistic performance, self-portraits articulate complex social, gendered, and personal identities. Bright traces the evolution of self-portraiture since the mid-19th century and, through the analysis of seventy-five contemporary works, examines how these images reflect upon questions of national, personal, gender, and bodily identity.
And who could demonstrate this phenomenon more convincingly than Cindy Sherman, the uncrowned queen of self-portraiture? Her characters emerge from countless corners of society, yet beneath the grotesque representation and distorted facial expressions, Sherman herself is always present. From this perspective, it may seem that every self-portrait could be understood as a selfie—but not every selfie qualifies as a self-portrait. An image becomes a form of self-representation only when its creator intends it to be. For this to happen, a deliberate search and underlying conceptual content are required; a fraction-of-a-second exposure made with a smartphone is not always enough. At the same time, this does not mean that certain everyday selfies cannot cross this boundary, revealing something of their makers’ inner worlds.
Cindy Sherman is by no means the only photographic artist concerned with visual self-representation. Francesca Woodman is best known for her black-and-white photographs featuring herself and other women. Her lyrical, melancholic images—often capturing her own vulnerability—have been widely discussed. Another iconic figure in this genre is Robert Mapplethorpe, who also illustrates how essential the search for the self can be through photography. These works function almost like a game played with the soul, testing how far one can go, what different personas evoke within us, and where we ultimately encounter our true selves.
A contemporary representative of the selfie is David Uzochukwu, an Austrian-Nigerian photographer, who began working with self-portraiture as a teenager. His practice centers on themes of resilience and belonging, often addressing themes of identity, vulnerability, and self-construction. He was among the early adopters to fully utilize Photoshop’s expansive toolkit, creating dreamlike image series that depart from reality.
Today, the rise of artificial intelligence has opened yet another chapter in the field of selfies and image manipulation. We can now create virtually any image of ourselves and ask AI to rework it in a chosen artistic style or to remove and add elements at will. The question is whether the constant production of selfies is thus the culmination of our own vanity. Are we increasingly obsessed with surface aesthetics, like Narcissus gazing into the reflection of the water—only now confronting the camera lens instead?
This concern is addressed by the phenomenon of the anti-selfie, which consists of photographs—often taken with smartphones—that deliberately avoid showing the subject’s face. Such images may function as a reaction against the narcissism or hypersexualization associated with conventional selfies, but they can also serve as tools for exploring body-image issues or for capturing moments that are less staged. One way or another, art historians largely agree that self-portrait photography, or selfie-making, remains one of the most popular photographic genres, both historically and in contemporary visual culture.
[1] Sse, Coco. “A Picture of Myself: Grand Duchess Anastasia Nikolaevna of Russia, 1914.” Coco Sse, Nov. 2013,
[2] Miller, Laura. “Purikura: Expressive Energy in Female Self-Photography.” Introducing Japanese Popular Culture, edited by Alisa Freedman and Toby Slade, Routledge, 2018, pp. 179–192.
[3] Sandbye, Mette. “Purikura as Affective, Aesthetic Labor.” Exploring the Selfie: Historical, Theoretical, and Analytical Approaches to Digital Self-Photography, edited by Julia Eckel et al., Springer, 2018, pp. 305–326.
[4] Tifentale, Alise. “The Selfie: More and Less than a Self-Portrait.” The Routledge Companion to Photography and Visual Culture, edited by Moritz Neumüller, Routledge, 2018, pp. 44–58.
[5] Tifentale, Alise, and Lev Manovich. “Competitive Photography and the Presentation of the Self.” Exploring the Selfie: Historical, Analytical, and Theoretical Approaches to Digital Self-Photography, edited by Julia Eckel, Jens Ruchatz, and Sabine Wirth, Palgrave Macmillan, 2018, pp. 167–187.
[6] Peraica, Ana. Culture of the Selfie: Self-Representation in Contemporary Visual Culture. Institute of Network Cultures, 2017, Institute of Network Cultures, http://networkcultures.org/blog/publication/culture-of-the-selfie-self-representation-in-contemporary-visual-culture/
[7] Bright, Susan. Auto Focus: The Self-Portrait in Contemporary Photography. Thames & Hudson, 2010.